Be ready to replace the disk when the warranty ends.

What’s the point of replacing them? The warranty doesn’t keep them from dying, it just means you get a free replacement. The amount of life left on the drives after the warranty expires depends heavily on how they’re used, and most self hosters are pretty gentle on their drives. I could see replacing the drives that are heavily used, but replacing all drives just because their warranty expired seems like a waste of money and effort.

It could - if a woman has a child with her own son.

That’s what I do, never noticed the balls exploding. It takes about 20 minutes, but that’s the microwave’s time, not mine.

I’m not a CPA, but I don’t think you can write off something that already made a profit. How would that even work, if companies were able to write off predicted ad revenue? They could make up any value and never have to pay any taxes at all.

I don’t think write-offs have anything to do with them removing these episodes.

I don’t think they can write it off either way, though. It only makes sense to write off shows that haven’t made money. It’s just “retiring” when you’re taking about something that’s already been released. There’s no ulterior profit motive, unlike when they write off unreleased movies and shows.

What does this have to do with write-offs? I don’t think they can write off episodes of South Park and the daily show that have already aired.

To be fair, “merging with” doesn’t specify which one will be managing the other. Unlike “merging into”…

I tried printing a disk with the bed at 70c and it looks better. Going to try with it even higher. This sheet has a +0.350 z offset compared to my normal PEI sheet, so that might contribute to low heat conduction.

It was out of mind until I got this new build plate with a fancy texture that I want to imprint on my prints.

This is PLA, I can’t get PETG to stick to the “PEO” bed plate.

Thanks, now I’m hungry

I tried adjusting the z offset to raise the nozzle, but it didn’t help.

My bl-touch mount broke so I’ve been doing manual bed leveling for a while. I just finished printing a 185x185mm part (half of a dactyl keyboard) and the first layer looked great from the top.

Edit: I also deleted the old bed mesh from my klipper config when the bl-touch broke

40/200 looks the same as 60/220. I can try 60/210 but I don’t think it will be any different.

It’s hot - 60 bed, 220 nozzle. I’ll try 40/200

Layer adhesion is great.

No, this pattern isn’t coming from the bed. The bed actually has a polygon pattern that I’m trying to get the plastic to pick up. Sellers on Amazon/ebay/Ali are calling it PEO, but it’s really just PEI with a fine texture that diffracts light. The pattern from the bed comes through really well on the perimeter of anything I print, but not the center.

I forgot to mention, but I also played with the extrusion multiplier (both directions) and it didn’t make a difference. I’ve also gone through the klipper docs and TeachingTech’s calibration guide, the printer is fairly well calibrated at this point.

If you need to replace a cheap nozzle after each medium-sized print with abrasive filament, then I’m thinking print quality will suffer towards the end of a larger print (like >250g, but definitely >1kg). Not having to replace nozzles mid-print makes the $70 nozzle seem like a better deal. Depending on what you print and how much you print, of course.

There aren’t any alternatives that follow the RPi’s original mission, they’re all for-profit. And I’m not sure you’ll find a more affordable board than the $15 Pi Zero 2.

Did you ask Delta for a refund?

I’m not sure I fully understood, but it sounds like you have several concerns with their competition? And those concerns are around asking people to design things that are potentially unsafe, giving bad advice for selecting materials, and awarding prize money to submissions by Prusa employees?