I was ready to drop $2,000 on AMD stock when it was $3 a share. Someone talked me out of it.

While it wouldn’t have made me “rich”, I’d be much better off than I am now.

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Funny I run across this after me and my kid had a long conversation about GLaDOS being an inspiration for The Absolute Solver from Murder Drones. (I say she is.)

Song context?

Hey, 40-seomthing here. Been bald since I was 19. Own. It. Go get yourself a nice hat and a mullet wig and give less fucks.

Acer has had this policy for over 20 years. I bought a laptop long ago from a vendor that I had issues with and they refused to give me support because I was running Linux at the time. (I forget what distro. Probably either Mandrake or early Ubuntu.) That laptop went right back to the vendor.

Never bought anything from them since.

They are even smart enough to dip into the nostalgia crowd who liked the older versions better with the classic servers.

Don’t give them that much credit. They just started providing a service (finally) that the private servers were providing. People were asking for vanilla servers from them even when BC was live.

I have a Corsair Nightsword.

There’s an open source version of the software that, I don’t think, is official but works well. It can rebind, set RGB, change DPI settings, and most if not everything the official software can.

Corsair mice aren’t the best, and the problems seem to be certain versions of their mice. (M65 is garbage. I went through 6 of them in 6 months.) Nightsword has been great though. Scimitar is good as well, have one that’s 6 years old now.

Resolution yes, refresh rate, no.

Well, I got rid of KDE and I’m on Cinnamon right now, so where are these tearing issues? You think I would have noticed after over a year of use.

Why would I care what software KDE comes with? This is Linux. I can install whatever works best for me. Including the whole of KDE software suite if I so chose. You KDE fans are voracious.

better multi monitor support

I run a 3x1 setup and KDE didn’t handle it any better than Cinnamon did.

Wayland support is coming to Mint. You can actually use it on 21.3 right now but it is unstable.

Rest of what you said is opinion.

As someone who daily drives Mint, wut.

Hopefully someone recommended for you to grab the .2mm nozzle since you’re interested in minis.

It’s here.

Oh, it’s got other issues than that, but the crackling is the most unnerving.

Some of the audio from my Jellyfin media player (flatpak) just hasn’t been playing. So I check Helvum and sometimes it just doesn’t even patch it over. I got the deb of JMP installed and that seems to have made it behave, but the maintainer of JMP hasn’t made that easy with all sorts of weird patches and junk.

My only issue with pulse audio was that I had to open Pulse effects each time I restarted my computer because it wouldn’t auto load the settings.

I thought it was when I switched over to pipewire, but no. I’ve got severe audio crackling problems now and I want to go back to pulse for all it’s faults.

Kept forgetting to tell you, you will want this for your ams and I use these for dryboxes. You can just grab some totes from the dollar tree or somewhere cheap and throw those in with the filament. Quick and easy way to keep your filament dry.

Here’s a hygrometer stand of the same type so you can keep it uniform.

Fill them with this stuff here.

Make sure it’s the rechargeable kind so you can just keep redrying it and you’ll never run out.

This is all especially important if you plan on printing PETG. PETG is affected much more by moisture than PLA.

If you mean copy/pasting the bar to the new screen/placement, I’m not sure. I’ve never gotten it to do anything other than create a new empty bar. When you look through the applets though it shows which ones you are already using and what they do so you can just click the + when you’re editing you new bar to add the thing you know you’ll want there.

Also, try out Cinnamenu, it’s better than stock start menu imo.

Well support structure will be needed on overhangs and stuff like that so don’t write it off.

I don’t use it much since I’m mostly printing things that don’t need it as they were designed to print in place.

No, no. I offered assistance.

What do I do with the white one? Put it in the last slot? Does the machine know when to use the white one as a support?

I don’t use the support filament as I have enough filament that using a bit for a model or two here or there isn’t a huge loss. However, you can use the Bambu Studio program and “paint” the support structures with that filament and it will use that instead of whatever normal filament you are using.

(Note on this, because these machines use NFC for the official bambu filaments, it might do it automatically. Don’t count on that though and always double check.)

You can keep it in your AMS anywhere you like, but for those onboard print files, it typically uses AMS slot one.

What would you consider is your favorite filament to work with? I’m thinking of splurging on a set off ebay. But at the same time, are discount filaments ok?

I love Inland filaments because I’m close to a Microcenter and can go and physically look at them before purchasing them. If you aren’t close to a Microcenter though, Inland filaments are Polymaker and eSun.

If you plan to get cheap filament, make sure you keep your bed as clean as you can because you want to rule that out immediately if there is an issue. I use Isopropyl alcohol before every print to remove any grease/oil/dust from the bed.

And do you use a special plate? People have mentioned golden ones that are easier to bend to pop out the build? Mine just scraped off fairly easy. And I’ve read to use hairspray or windex to make it easier to pop off later.

I use the standard PEI plate that comes with the machine. I allow the bed to cool off in the machine and then get the print off. Makes it much easier.

Controlling these printers is best done from a PC. Bambu Studio will give you the most options to control your prints. The Bambu Handy app works great as well but I find it limiting.